Of traditional food and tales long-lost!

LINK: http://know.burrp.com/food-dining/chef-radha-rao-hyderabadi-food-fete-copperpoint/46172

Over tales of lost Hyderabadi cuisine and Jani mamu’s recipe collection,Sandhya Ramachandran chats up with Radha Rao who is in town to host the Hyderabadi Food Fete at GRT Grand Copper Point.

The first thought that struck me when I first spoke to Radha Rao was how passionate she is about food and how much I’d love to taste her cooking! That is the kind of person she is, effervescent and full of stories to tell about every dish she has carefully planned for the Hyderabadi Food Fete on at the GRT Grand Copper Point till 11th November.

Radha always had leanings towards food, as it was her father who opened the first of its kind Udupi restaurant in the twin cities of Hyderabad and Secunderabad. Radha’s interest drifted towards Hyderabadi cuisine when she came under the influence of her uncle, the gourmet Chef Mir Hussain Ali Moosavi, whom she fondly calls Jani Mamu.

“I inherited all his recipes. He would go to the chowks (by-lanes) in Hyderabad searching for old books about food and cooking. Then he would patiently translate it from Arabic or Persian to Urdu. I translated them to English, although he would often tell me, ‘beta, learn all the languages’ to get the exact recipe,” she explains.

Radha feels that biryaniand haleem have become synonymous with Hyderabadi food and the lost traditions of Hyderabadi households, especially the Muslim families, need to be revived. And in this attempt, the Hyderabadi Food Fete was born, thanks to Radha’s enthusiasm and Mr.Sitaram’s (Culinary Director at GRT Grand) long-standing love for this cuisine.

I ask her to tell us more about the menu (and the tales they carry too!). She begins with the Badam Ke Rab, a sweet dish that likens almonds to God’s food. “It is an old recipe. No one has it, as far as I know. We got it from an old book from one of the chowks,” she elaborates. Her haleem dish has, along with the regular meat and wheat combination, chicken in the korma – yet another innovation found in her Jani Mamu’s collection.

One more badam dish she mentions is theBadam Ki Jaali that Muslim households get made during weddings to gift on silver plates, while inviting or as a return gift to guests. “It is a baked almond dessert,” she says, “and has an almond biscuit at the base with a silvervarq (foil) separating it from a mould cut biscuit that resembles lace or a jaali(screen)”.

In an attempt to give “a complete array of Hyderabadi food”, she has whipped up a menu that changes every day of the fete barring two or three regulars. With oh-so-much to feast upon, I decide to have some fun and urge her to suggest a must-have three-course meal to appease an irate boss.

“Start with the Motiya Sherbet, it would floor anyone,” she begins. “Then if your boss is a hardcore non-vegetarian, urge her/him to try thePattar Ka Ghosht. We cook the meat in the traditional way with actual stones. Also try the Dum Ka Murg(chicken cooked in the dum style of cooking) as its smoky flavour and tasty gravy is sure to please anyone. Finish it with two desserts. A cold one – Khubani Ka Meetha or stewed apricots, and a hot one – Dabbal Ka Meetha which is made out of Hyderabad’s Dabbal bread soaked in sheera (thick sugar syrup) and flavoured with nuts.”

“If you bring a boy instead of your boss, just serve the Motiya Sherbet,” she continues, “he’s sure to propose to you on bent knees with a rose!” Curious, I ask her what this magic dish contains! “Jasmine flowers, a proven aphrodisiac,” she laughs.

Must Try: Kabuli Biryani, Dabbal Ka Meetha, the “comfort food” combination of Steamed Rice-Kaddu Ka Dalcha (bottle gourd with chick pea lentils)-Tali Hui Bhindi (deep fried okra), Pattar Ka Ghosht, Motiya Sherbet

Meal for two: Rs.1900 + taxes

Food Photographs: Copper Point 

Chef Photograph: Sandhya Ramachandran

Chef Appeal: Talking about vegetarianism, Viagra and more

LINK: http://know.burrp.com/chefs-corner/chef-ethem-aydemir-interview/45725

Chef Ethem Aydemir chats with Sandhya Ramachandran about food, more food and life.

Chatting with Chef Ethem Aydemir, now Executive Chef-Speciality Cuisines at GRT Grand Azulia is always a pleasure. He’s always brimming with stories and anecdotes, making conversations with him unforgettable. To top it, he serves us a strong cup of the rich and heady authentic Turkish coffee. Although a tad too sweet for our taste, he tells us, “It is said in my culture that one cup of coffee is memorable for the next 40 years. That means you will remember me for 40 years starting from today”.

As if anyone would ever forget him anyway! Not only is he one fantastic chef but he also resembles Kollywood’s hoot-worthy hero Ajith Kumar (the only difference being, Chef has a charming accented voice). People have told him so, and we wholeheartedly agree. “When I travel around the city, people keep asking me if I am Ajith Kumar. Ajith is going to be jealous (if he hears about) Ajith No.2 running around Chennai,” Chef adds heartily. A Chennai photographer, Arun, even did an entire photo-shoot with Chef Ethem posing like Ajith! Talk about being a good sport.

Chef Ethem tells us about life in Bolu, the province from where he hails. The fifth generation Chef from his family, Ethem grew up in an environment that revolved around food. “When people met, they spoke of nothing but food. ‘Where do you source your meat from? How do you get those fresh vegetables? How is the crop this season?’ and so on” – used to be the nature of most conversations between friends. “My first job was in a kitchen of chefs who were big on discipline. They were not flexible. There were long hours – almost 15 to 16 hours every day. As a 14 year old, I had no time for anything else. Work and sleep – like an army – was the routine,” he elaborates.

Those tough times are probably what helped him climb to his stature today of becoming the Executive Chef-Speciality Cuisines at GRT Grand Azulia. “I cannot be flexible with hygiene. I joke with my team, I kid with them, but they know their limits. I have had a very good team for almost a year now. But at the end of the day, my kitchen is a school and we all learn together with discipline,” he says.

Chef Ethem also is very particular about the quality of food. He makes sure that he gets fresh vegetables and meat. He even tried growing his own ingredients. Unfortunately, the weather gods had other plans. “When I was in Uzbekistan, however, I gave some seeds I had from Turkey to a farmer and taught him how to cultivate it. Today he has become a rich man and has not forgotten me. All the Chefs now source their supplies from him,” he narrates with a child-like happiness.

He doesn’t believe in travelling light; he takes all that he has learnt from his many travels across Uzbekistan, Russia, Saudi Arabia and Europe and continues to add to the many flavours he conjures up in the kitchen. “Everywhere people are the same. The culture is a little different, but the basic nature of humans is the same,” Chef Ethem tells us. “In Asia you find more hospitality, in Turkey you find great respect for the guests. Recently, in India, when I was driving, a man was following me for almost five to six kilometres. He finally pulled over in front and gave me my tyre’s hub cap. Apparently it had fallen off and this stranger had travelled all the way, following me, just to give it to me. I was touched by the concern! ”

What else does he like about India? Especially, in the food section, we prod. “I love Indian breads, especially roti. Dosas and idlis are good too. I love kebabs and biryani and the Indian tea,” he reveals. However Chef Ethem sure has some issues with Indian cooking. “Indian gravies have too many spices. It is full of flavour. I like it when the natural flavours are brought out. When meat is meat and fish is fish.” He also finds the huge number of vegetarians in India, a very curious fact. “In Turkey 30 million tourists come every year. Not even 1 per cent of that lot is vegetarian!” he laughs.

“I love Italian cuisine with all the fresh vegetables and fresh meats. I love their pastas. Mediterranean food has become trendy now,” he says. His daughter is now following his footsteps and is studying to be a Chef. “We are all good cooks. My wife is an excellent cook. But she doesn’t even send me to the markets when I am home. ‘You will buy too many ingredients,’ she complains. So the kitchen is her territory,” he tells us.

So far away from family, we wonder how Chef Ethem spends his time in Chennai. “I go to Express Avenue. Meet fellow chefs at Amethyst Café. I drive down to Pondicherry or Mahabalipuram. I like photography,” he says and narrates an incident of clicking the picture of a monkey drinking out of a coke bottle. He asks us to check it out on his Facebook album. Friendly and fun, we are assured Chef Ethem can easily strike a conversation anywhere.

Having just finished our coffee, Chef Ethem suddenly makes a grab at the cup and upturns it saying, “Gypsies back home read the patterns left in your cup and predict the future.” We ask him if he can brew up some such magic for us, and he says simply, “I don’t lie.” Chef minces no words in getting to the point.

We ask him about what his favourite preparation is, amongst his own cooking. “The Chef never reveals that!” he jokes. He serves us baklava and somewhere between the layers of filo bread and the nuts, we lose all sense and clarity and fall a victim to its taste. “It is the Turkish Viagra” he tells us, when we gush as to how amazing it tastes. “So never feed it when you come here with your boss!” he adds with a laugh. He encourages us to go for a Mousakka or a lamb shank if we need to choose just one dish to impress the boss or a better half (with baklava, of course).

Ask him what the most memorable meal he has ever had, and he goes into flash back mode – “When I was in Germany, I had a roast pigeon in a restaurant in a castle. It was the best I have had! I also like fresh seafood,” he adds.

So what new plans, we ask, now that Azulia has its wonderful weekend lunch menu in place. “I am off to Bolu and Istanbul for a holiday” he says, excited at the prospect of going home to his wife, two daughters and the rest of the family. We ask him to bring us back some Turkish coffee, more exotic recipes to try and send him off with the warm Indian goodbye he has come to associate with this country.

Photographs: Sandhya Ramachandran